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Dorset Buttons
The Heritage Craft of Dorset Buttons features four main styles:
Cross Wheel
Probably the most common Dorset Button is some form of ‘wheel’; which is based on a blanket stitch (casting) a wire, wooden or other type of ring. Once the ring is covered then through slicking (adding stitches), laying (add cross strands) and rounding (weaves and spirals) the button’s distinctive pattern is created.
High Tops & Dorset Knobs
These buttons were made before the advent of the metal ring and were started with the base of a ram’s horn. They are often as tall as they are wide and are finished with a covering of fabric and embroidered embellishments.
Birds Eyes & Mites
Another button style that didn’t use a metal ring. Instead a small piece of triangular fabric was rolled and curved to form the ring. Once this had been done then, as with wheels, blanket stitches are used to cover the outside of the ring.
Singletons
This design of button is associated with the Singleton family who became famous for this style of button in the 17th century. The singletons are started in a similar way to wheels but then a disc of fabric is used in the centre, this is often padded, and forms the basis for embroidered embellishments.
The Rise and Fall of the Dorset Button Industry
It is generally accepted that the first Dorset Button produced on an industrial scale was by Abraham Case in 1622 from the town of Shaftesbury. A native of the Cotswolds, Case had travelled extensively in Europe and it is likely that his original work was based directly on these experiences, although accounts differ as to what was the direct influence.
High Tops and then Dorset Knobs were the original designs but little else is known of the development of the fledgling industry and Case’s grandson, Peter, introduced the wire ring to form the basis of the button. Imported from England’s industrial heartland of Birmingham the introduction of wire allowed the industry to enjoy a significant period of expansion and by the end of the century the business, managed by Yorkshireman John Clayton, was employing nearly 700 women and children. Similar growth was made by other family businesses and it is estimated that over 7,000 were directly employed making Dorset Buttons.
However this was to be the zenith of the industry as through the first half of the 19th century there was a gradual decline in button making and the demand for hand made buttons. The decline became a slump when in 1851, John Ashton, demonstrated a button making amchine at the Great Exhibition. Quicker, cheaper and flat the new style, machined buttons, quickly superceded the ‘thread button of Dorsetshire’.
With wide spread unemployment and extensive emigration, not helped by significant unemployment amongst farm labourers, it would have been very easy for the skill to become yet another heritage craft lost forever. However through the foresight of Dowager Florence Lees the skills and designs were saved. She travelled extensively around the county, visiting families to learn about the buttons and then revived a cottage industry make hand made buttons for parliamentarians utilising their consituency colours. Though this revival was halted by the outbreak of the First World War the craft had been saved.
And today?
More recently has seen a resurgance through the work of contemporary designers, like TJFrog, who have developed the traditional buttons through using modern yarns, materials and evolving the designs.
